Fraxel or a Pico Facial Before the Holidays?
If your skin looks tired, uneven or a little rough after the summer, a low-downtime laser is the most effective way to change that before the holidays. The two most often asked about are Fraxel FTX and a Pico facial. Both renew the skin without the long recovery of deeper resurfacing, but they work differently, heal differently and suit different goals and calendars.
If your skin looks tired, patchy or a bit rough after the summer, a gentle laser is the best way to change that before the holidays. The two people ask about most are Fraxel FTX and a Pico facial. Both refresh your skin without the long healing of deeper laser work, but they work in different ways, heal differently, and suit different goals and diaries.
Fraxel or Pico: the essentials
The short version
A fractional laser that renews a fraction of the skin at a time, for tone, texture, fine lines and sun damage
A laser that renews tiny dots of skin at a time, for patchy colour, rough texture, fine lines and sun damage.
Ultra-short picosecond pulses that break up pigment and stimulate renewal with very little heat
Very short laser pulses that break up brown colour and refresh the skin with very little heat.
Pink for five to seven days, then fine bronzing and flaking for up to two weeks
Pink for five to seven days, then light bronzing and flaking for up to two weeks.
Redness that usually settles within hours to a few days
Redness that usually goes within hours to a few days.
Fraxel FTX commonly three to five sessions a month apart; a Pico facial is often a short series
Fraxel FTX usually three to five visits a month apart. A Pico facial is often a short series.
Last Fraxel session at least two weeks before; a Pico facial about a week before
Last Fraxel visit at least two weeks before. A Pico facial about a week before.
What low downtime really means
What little time off really means
Low downtime is not no downtime. Both of these lasers work by creating a controlled change in the skin that the body then repairs, and for a short time that repair can be seen. The difference from deep resurfacing is in degree: days rather than weeks, and a social recovery that most people manage around ordinary life with a little planning.
Little time off is not no time off. Both lasers work by making a small, controlled change in the skin that your body then repairs, and for a short while you can see that repair happening. The difference from deep laser work is how much: days instead of weeks, and healing most people fit around normal life with a little planning.
That repair is where the result comes from. Old, uneven surface cells are replaced, pigment is cleared, and the deeper skin is prompted to make new collagen. The question before the holidays is therefore not whether there will be any recovery, but whether the recovery will be over, and the improvement visible, by the date that matters.
That repair is where the result comes from. Old, uneven surface cells are replaced, brown colour is cleared, and the deeper skin is nudged into making new collagen. So the question before the holidays is not whether there will be any healing, but whether it will be over, and the improvement showing, by the date that matters.
Both treatments are also chosen after a diagnosis, not instead of one. Brown marks can be sun spots, melasma or pigment left by inflammation, and a new or changing spot needs to be looked at medically before any laser is used. In this practice Dr. Gallacher examines the skin and performs every laser treatment herself.
Both treatments are chosen after a diagnosis, not instead of one. Brown marks can be sun spots, melasma or marks left by inflammation, and a new or changing spot needs checking medically before any laser is used. At this practice Dr. Gallacher examines your skin and does every laser treatment herself.
Fraxel FTX: renewal a fraction at a time
Fraxel FTX: renewing tiny dots of skin at a time
Fraxel treats the skin in thousands of microscopic columns, leaving the skin between them untouched. That untouched skin supplies the healing, which is why recovery is measured in days. The principle, fractional photothermolysis, was described by Manstein and colleagues in 2004 and changed laser resurfacing.
Fraxel treats the skin in thousands of tiny columns and leaves the skin between them alone. The untouched skin does the healing, which is why recovery takes days, not weeks. The idea was first described by scientists in 2004, and it changed laser treatment.
Fraxel FTX has two wavelengths. The 1927 nm setting works near the surface and is particularly good for brown spots, uneven tone and early sun damage. The 1550 nm setting reaches deeper for texture, fine lines and scarring. A plan can use one or both, and a course of three to five sessions about a month apart is common.
Fraxel FTX has two settings. One works near the surface and is especially good for brown spots, patchy colour and early sun damage. The other reaches deeper for rough texture, fine lines and scars. A plan can use one or both, and three to five visits about a month apart is common.
After treatment there is a sunburn-like warmth for an hour or so, then pinkness for five to seven days. Over the following days the skin bronzes and flakes finely as the treated cells are shed, for up to two weeks depending on the strength. A good moisturiser hides most of the flaking. More detail is on the Fraxel FTX page and in Fractional Resurfacing Explained.
Afterwards your skin feels like mild sunburn for an hour or so, then looks pink for five to seven days. Over the next days it turns slightly bronze and flakes finely as the treated cells come away, for up to two weeks depending on the strength. A good moisturiser hides most of the flaking. More is on the Fraxel FTX page and in Fractional Resurfacing Explained.
The Pico facial: speed instead of heat
The Pico facial: speed instead of heat
A picosecond laser delivers pulses lasting trillionths of a second. At that speed the energy acts mainly as a pressure effect rather than heat, shattering pigment into fine particles that the body clears and, with a fractional lens, creating tiny zones of renewal within the skin while the surface stays intact.
A picosecond laser fires pulses that last a trillionth of a second. At that speed the energy works mainly as a tiny shock wave rather than heat. It breaks brown colour into fine dust that your body clears away and, with a special lens, makes tiny spots of renewal inside the skin while the surface stays intact.
Because so little heat spreads into the surrounding skin, a Pico facial usually leaves only redness and slight swelling for a few hours to a few days, and many people return to their day with make-up. It is used to brighten dull or uneven skin, soften sun spots and refine texture and pores. A study published in 2015 used a picosecond laser with a fractional lens on acne scars and measured improvement in scar volume and texture, which helped establish the approach for skin quality as well as pigment.
Because so little heat spreads into the skin around it, a Pico facial usually leaves only redness and slight puffiness for a few hours to a few days, and many people go back to their day wearing make-up. It is used to brighten dull or patchy skin, fade sun spots and refine texture and pores. A study published in 2015 used this kind of laser with a special lens on acne scars and measured smoother skin and shallower scars, which helped show it can improve skin quality as well as colour.
The trade-off is depth. A Pico facial is gentler than Fraxel and usually needs a series for its best result, with each session adding a little more. For people who cannot spare several days of visible recovery before the holidays, that gentleness is the point. More is on the Pico Laser page.
The trade-off is depth. A Pico facial is gentler than Fraxel and usually needs a few visits for its best result, each one adding a little more. If you cannot spare several days of visible healing before the holidays, that gentleness is exactly the point. More is on the Pico Laser page.
Side by side
Side by side
Neither is better in general. Each is better for some skin, some goals and some calendars.
Neither one is better overall. Each is better for some skin, some goals and some diaries.
| Fraxel FTX | Pico facial | |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Fractional heating in microscopic columns, at 1927 nm or 1550 nm | Picosecond pulses with a pressure effect and little heat, often through a fractional lens |
| Strongest for | Sun damage, uneven tone, texture, fine lines, acne scarring | Dullness, fine pigment, freckles, mild texture and pores |
| Visible recovery | Pink 5 to 7 days; bronzing and flaking up to 2 weeks | Redness for hours to a few days |
| Typical course | 3 to 5 sessions about a month apart | A short series, spaced a few weeks apart |
| Latest session before an event | At least 2 weeks, ideally longer | About 1 week |
| Best if you | Have more to correct and can plan around a week of recovery | Want brightness with minimal disruption, or have little time |
| Fraxel FTX | Pico facial | |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Heats tiny columns of skin, at a surface or a deeper setting | Very short pulses with little heat, often through a special lens |
| Best for | Sun damage, patchy colour, rough texture, fine lines, acne scars | Dull skin, fine brown colour, freckles, mild texture and pores |
| What you see after | Pink 5 to 7 days; flaking up to 2 weeks | Redness for hours to a few days |
| Visits | 3 to 5, about a month apart | A few, a few weeks apart |
| Latest before an event | At least 2 weeks, better more | About 1 week |
| Best if you | Have more to fix and can plan around a week of healing | Want brighter skin with little fuss, or have little time |
Some plans use both: Fraxel early in the autumn for the deeper work, and a Pico facial closer to the holidays for brightness. Melasma is a special case for either laser, because heat and inflammation can make it worse, and it needs its own plan, described in Melasma Is Managed, Not Cured.
Some plans use both: Fraxel early in the autumn for the deeper work, and a Pico facial nearer the holidays for brightness. Melasma is a special case for either laser, because heat and inflammation can make it worse, so it needs its own plan, described in Melasma Is Managed, Not Cured.
Before and after your session
Before and after your visit
The preparation is simple, and it matters. Lasers that target pigment are safest on skin that has not recently been tanned or burnt, so a fading tan is a reason to wait rather than to proceed.
Getting ready is simple, and it matters. Lasers aimed at colour are safest on skin that has not been tanned or burnt recently, so a fading tan is a reason to wait, not to go ahead.
Retinoids and strong exfoliants are usually paused for several days beforehand, and anyone who gets cold sores around the mouth may be offered preventive treatment. Afterwards, the routine is gentle cleansing, generous moisturiser, a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day, and no picking at flaking skin, because that is what risks marks the laser did not cause.
Retinoid creams and strong exfoliants are usually stopped for several days before, and if you get cold sores around the mouth you may be offered tablets to prevent one. Afterwards: gentle cleansing, plenty of moisturiser, a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day, and no picking at flaking skin, because that can leave marks the laser did not.
For the holidays, the order of the season matters too. Injections can follow about two weeks before an event, and a DiamondGlow facial in the final week adds glow to newly renewed skin. The full sequence is set out in Your Pre-Holiday Skin Calendar.
For the holidays, the order of things matters too. Injections can follow about two weeks before an event, and a DiamondGlow facial in the last week adds glow to freshly renewed skin. The full order is in Your Pre-Holiday Skin Calendar.
Questions patients ask
Which has less downtime, Fraxel or a Pico facial?
Which needs less time off, Fraxel or a Pico facial?
A Pico facial. Redness usually settles within hours to a few days, while Fraxel FTX usually means five to seven days of pinkness and up to two weeks of bronzing and flaking.
A Pico facial. Redness usually goes within hours to a few days. Fraxel FTX usually means five to seven days of pink skin and up to two weeks of flaking.
Which gives the bigger result?
Which makes the bigger difference?
For sun damage, texture, lines and scarring, Fraxel FTX generally does more per session. A Pico facial is gentler and builds its result over a series, which suits brightness and fine pigment.
For sun damage, rough texture, lines and scars, Fraxel FTX usually does more per visit. A Pico facial is gentler and builds up over a few visits, which suits brightness and fine brown colour.
How close to a party can I have a Pico facial?
How close to a party can I have a Pico facial?
About a week before is a sensible minimum, to allow for any redness or minor flaking to settle. A first treatment is better done earlier, so you know how your skin responds.
About a week before is a sensible minimum, so any redness or flaking has gone. If it is your first one, do it earlier, so you know how your skin reacts.
Can I wear make-up after these treatments?
Can I wear make-up afterwards?
After a Pico facial, often the next day or sooner. After Fraxel FTX, mineral make-up is usually fine once the skin is no longer raw, typically after a day or two, and moisturiser helps it sit well over flaking.
After a Pico facial, often the next day or sooner. After Fraxel FTX, mineral make-up is usually fine after a day or two, and moisturiser helps it sit smoothly over flaking skin.
Are these lasers safe for darker skin?
Are these lasers OK for darker skin?
They can be, with careful choice of wavelength, energy and spacing, because darker skin is more prone to pigment change after inflammation. Suitability is assessed at the consultation.
They can be, with careful choice of settings and timing, because darker skin is more likely to darken after inflammation. Whether it suits you is decided at the consultation.
- Manstein D, Herron GS, Sink RK, Tanner H, Anderson RR. Fractional photothermolysis: a new concept for cutaneous remodeling using microscopic patterns of thermal injury. Lasers Surg Med. 2004;34(5):426-438. Source
- Brauer JA, Kazlouskaya V, Alabdulrazzaq H, et al. Use of a picosecond pulse duration laser with specialized optic for treatment of facial acne scarring. JAMA Dermatol. 2015;151(3):278-284. Source
Where to go next
Talk it through with a physician first.
Every plan starts with an assessment of your skin, your anatomy and what you actually want to change.
This page is general health information, not medical advice. It cannot tell you whether a treatment is right for you. Approved uses, risks and results differ from person to person, and product labelling changes. Ask us at Dermatology and Laser Centre about your own situation, or make an appointment, and seek urgent care for any serious symptom.
